"Price is King" ... When "Price-is-King", you may be shopping for short-term gain ... be cautious about Wide Plank flooring material (of any kind) that is of mixed species and/or inconsistent widths. Substandard Grades, Air Dried, V-Joint (top edges), and 'unpredictable storage', etc. as these are just a few items "you will eventually pay for" with regret.

When "Price-is-King", you may be shopping for short-term gain ... be cautious about Wide Plank flooring material (of any kind) that is of mixed species and/or inconsistent widths. Substandard Grades, Air Dried, V-Joint (top edges), and 'unpredictable storage', etc. as these are just a few items "you will eventually pay for" with regret.

"Lumber Yard Pine" .... Common lumber retailers know that "Price is King" ... lumber sold by them for flooring is just another commodity, period.  Flooring lumber is not treated as a climate-sensitive building component and is generally sold Air Dried to ~ 14% and stored in damp, cold outdoor sheds. Or worse, supposedly Kiln-Dried to 6% which is too dry and causes 'expansion' to become unstable and rise — buckling — in our generally humid climate. 6% humidity is only used for furniture components and even then, only for 'floating' door panels. In addition, retailers are not at all knowledgeable when it comes to understanding the vast differences between Eastern White Pine Flooring, New Brunswick Red Pine and Northern Ontario Red Pine Flooring product.

Northern Ontario WidePlank is the unique product of its harsh environment ... at thirty-two (32) growth rings per inch (slow growth) of thickness, it is hardy and durable ... retailers, generally, buy on price alone and do not care to know the difference. Sustainable Forest and Harvesting Consistency is not usually of any consideration because Price is King.

Notable Quotes

"Our multi-million dollar kilning and milling operation has been in my family for generations (since 1901) and I have not seen anything like what you (Jesse Lance) do with Red Pine ... I refer 'to what you guys are doing in Canada' to my international customers in England, Sweden, Japan and China .... It is my pleasure to supply your high quality specifications. Isn't our 12" spectacular?"

Note: My Red Pine supplier uses Northern Ontario Red Pine exclusively (as I do) and is 'world-renowned' for Kiln-Drying Red Pine to 8–10% without 'Chaffing' and is a able to top the 'quality' of Swedish Red Pine in Sweden. ... that is a major feat.

(Suppliers, like those supplying Pineflooring.ca, exhibit Canadian product and ingenuity, proven over time..)

"Being a carpenter by trade, I long ago knew about the hardness and durability of red pine."

* Note: You can 'prove' Kiln-Dried lumber simply by looking for bluish 'gum' at the end of an uncut length of kiln-dried lumber ... unlike 'weathered wood', this bluish gum is, in fact, Kiln-Pitch (Gum forced out of wood by 'baking' in a kiln for seven (7) to ten (10) days depending on the species). Secondly; the presence of Kiln-Pitch does not guarantee proper Kiln Dried lumber for flooring use as most common lumber retailers store the wood outdoors in damp and cold sheds, as mentioned, and the wood simply retreats to "Air-Dried", or worse, it expands naturally beyond 14% humidity while in improper storage conditions. So, are retailers not being truthful when they insist their product is Kiln-Dried?

But, we 'feel' for suppliers of all calibre because, Pineflooring.ca has also been 'questioned' ... in cases where DIY knowledge and skill are innocently lacking. For instance, it is incorrect to say that 'gaps' are caused by shrinkage (upon delivery and immediate installation) because that is not the case as the wood I supply has been properly kiln dried, held in controlled storage and delivered to the project promptly and in prime condition ... That is my specialty.  Upon receiving my wideplank Red Pine it must be stored under normal indoor conditions for as short a period of time as possible or, better yet, installed immediately. Admittedly, major 'gaps' between wideplank boards can occur because of an uneven subfloor and/or improper installation by installers.

Doing it Right.

In addition to Complimentary Online/Fax Quotations, Marreed-Prestman offers a No Obligation Fee-Based On-Site Inspection, Assessment and Quotation Service ... I visit your job site and assess 'job issues', your requirements, options, methods, budget and 'vision' ... you take advantage of my knowledge and expertise. Whether you Do-it-Yourself or have me install and finish or you hire a local contractor, my On-Site Consultations will inevitably save you Space, Time, Money, and Frustration. Half (50%) of my On-Site Consultation Service Fee is credited to either Value Package, Full Installation or DIY: Do-it-Yourself/Contractor Lumber Supply order. Lastly, "Telephone Advisory Guidance" is available — based on my years of experience and expertise — whether you purchased your flooring from Marreed-Prestman or, not. Unlimited "Telephone Advisory Guidance" is available thru job completion. From the selection of wood to finishing products and technique and, of course, assurance that you avoid major problems associated with jack posts, subfloors, and the like. We arrange a time for you to call and I answer your questions while your project is underway and as a "back-up" if you have any questions thereafter.

Prefinished Pine ¹ — prefinished wood flooring of any species or quality — is not recommended when you live with "kids and dogs" as prefinished wood flooring topcoats are "micro sprayed" soooo-very-thinly, that it dries instantly under UVLight ... Topcoats may sprayed a dozen or more times but it is none-the-less "Thin Skinned" compared to my Onsite 2X-Floodcoats ... prefinished flooring scratches and scuffs easily and it overexposes scratches and dents. Prefinished Wideplank is usually only available in White Pine in Four (4") and Six (6") widths with a dirt-catching V-groove along the sides of each board. I offer Solid-Face (no V-groove) Wideplank for Six (6"), Eight (8"), Ten (10") and twelve (12") Wideplank Red Pine with On-Site Finishing. Lastly, All prefinished wood flooring is high-maintenance and difficult, if not impossible, to repair or have refinished.

Prefinished Pine ² — prefinished wood flooring of any species or quality — is not recommended because with Prefinished can not be sanded 'level' — board-to-board — when there is slight but, ever-present, unevenness in all subfloors. The unevenness in the subfloor will 'float' to the surface ... your Prefinished floor will look 'wrinkled' in daylight and feel uneven when you walk over it ... I hasten to add that Prefinished wood has a "V-Groove" on the top edge surface — between the boards — in an effort to 'compensate' for uneven subfloors but, the "V-Groove" is a nuisance to clean whether you sweep or vacuum. (Note: Retailers will deny that their 'Micro-Groove is a nuisance ... but, they will not volunteer to wipe up spilt milk or baby food ... try it.)

Prefinished Pine ³ — prefinished wood flooring of any species or quality — is not recommended because it is 'impossible' to install without scuffing, scratching or denting during the installation process ... try it.

Traditional White Pine(s) and Yellow Pine(s) are not recommended because they are soft (even when professionally finished using 'Diamond-Tough' Resin Floodcoats). See: Janka Rating for Wood Hardness Northern Ontario Red Pine is rated ~ 1575, Eastern Canadian White Pine is rated ~ 380.

Wide Plank Pine over twelve inches (12"+) inches in width is not recommended because it is not available in RED ... it is only available in common pines which, as stated, are too soft for active lifestyles.

River Salvage: Waterlogged, Deadheads, Beachcomber 'Pine' — reclaimed pine flooring and, so-called, Antique Pine Flooring is not recommended because it is not 'Pine' as it is often claimed to be ... it is a mix of species that include the softer White Pine, as well as, 'lost woods' and 'cast-offs' that are not necessarily 'Pine' and are not compatible in quality and hardness. River Salvage companies proclaim ~ 6% humidity (no shrinkage) which is misleading because wood will naturally acclimatizes itself to its environment which is (for wood) ~ 8-10 humidity under normal circumstances.  Being too dry, Waterlogged Lumber is "Brittle Wood' (prone to Chaffing)... 'inflexible' — where flexibility is absolutely necessary — firstly, for proper installations and secondly, to accommodate seasonal changes in humidity and heat.

Brittle Wood has its place" as baseboards, window frames and in furniture building but, as wideplank flooring, it is infamous for cracking, blistering (chaffing) and splintering. Lastly, Brittle Wood can not be used below grade or in unwinterized buildings.

Barnboard 'Pine', is not recommended because it is not usually milled by professional mills and it seldom meets "building code" ... use it for decor only and only after applying a 'fire-retardant' (as may be required to meet your building code and insurance requirements) for indoor wall applications".

Wall & Ceiling Board 'Pine', is not recommended for flooring because it is not milled, graded or kilned for flooring. Wallboard and Ceiling 'paneling' is easily identified by a 1/16" bevel cut into the Top-Side edge of every board to form a "V-Groove" upon installation. The "V-Groove" allows ease of installation on 'uneven' walls and offers a 'rustic' feel in a room. Secondly, and tragically, Unfinished Wall & Ceiling Board with a 1/16" bevel (used as flooring) can not be Professionally sanded, stained or TopCoat FloodCoat Finished. Lastly, where the boards do not have Bottom-Side Anti-Cup Grooves, the boards must not be 'reversed/turned over' to create a flat surface thus 'eliminating' the "V-Groove" ... without a shockingly costly replacement of the floor — in the near future — with the correct materials which would have been used, by an informed Client, in the first place.

Imported Woods, and particularly, Asian, Russian and South American flooring is high risk for North American consumers. These woods appeal to buyers based on Bamboozle ... 'exclusivity' and 'eco-friendly' but, these products are not 'recognized', 'rated' or 'regulated' by any North American (hardwood or softwood) Industry Association ... when an imported wood floor becomes a 'problem floor' consumers seem to have little effective legal recourse. According to lawyers who represent 'disgruntled' clients and contact me for 'help', I am told, it is a big problem.

Hardwood  

These are the facts you must know when buying wide plank Red Pine flooring — in comparison to any hardwood flooring — as follows:

1) Hardwood is seldom "real" any more ... it's medium density fibreboard (MDF), Engineered Wood or Stripped (laminated) flooring (chipboard) with a veneer top layer ... They all Gas-Off forever!

Strip Hardwood Flooring "ripples" in the sunlight because it warps.)

Strip Hardwood flooring has a 3^mm veneer top layer, the base of the 'board' may be 12^mm MDF or 'engineered' wood which denies the hardwood the ability to be refinished. Quality hardwood is solid wood but, it will expose every ding, dent and scratch and may need to be refinished three or four times over its lifetime. That is inconvenient, costly and poor value. That is not the case with my artistically-distressed solid wide plank Red Pine flooring.

2) Hardwood (topcoats) must be sanded down to the bare wood so that the grouting (filler between the boards) can be removed and replaced before that kind of floor can be refinished ... again, it is inconvenient, time-consuming and costly. That is not the case with my artistically-distressed solid Red Pine flooring ... there is no grouting involved ... therefore, should you ever choose to refinish a Marreed-Prestman floor, only the sheen of the 'Diamond-Finish' need be hand-sanded prior to refinishing.

3) Most common hardwood is pre-finished with 'umpteen' coats of a NANO (micro-thin spray  resin and UVL cured). Each spray-coat is so fine that one could not spray their hair with hairspray as fine. These coatings are cured within seconds under ultraviolet light (UVL) before going through another instant-coating. (Great for manufacturers, not great for consumers.) All-in-all, ten (10) coats of a UV-cured finish = .006 mil which is only 10% of my multiple on-site flood-coats of 'Diamond-Tough'. Lastly, and most importantly, Epoxy-Cured Resin finishes are about half as hard and durable as Aluminum-Oxide Cured Resin (we use the latter exclusively).

4) Hardwood flooring may need to be refinished every ten years — if you are particular — whereas a Marreed-Prestman floor may never need doing ... scratches, dings and dents that accumulate over the years simply add to 'the beauty and value' of my 'Old World' flooring"